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The scale of it was disorientating. You can just about see a tiny car at the bottom, for scale. The torrential river we followed We continued climbing up and up, the beauty of our surroundings making up for any fatigue that we felt. We set up camp at about meters, amongst roaming cows, on a bank overlooking endless forest covered mountains. He pours a glass and hands it to me, it tastes like paint stripper. Chloe comes out bleary eyed and joins us. No one seems to be having a particularly good time as we pass the glass about, unable to communicate properly and keen for bed. Soon he starts talking to us more assertively and we eventually understand that he wants us to go somewhere with him and have cheese.
Eventually, after Chloe tells a lie about having a stomach ache, he leaves, slamming his car door shut and muttering to himself. We set-up in a campsite on the edge of town and meet Fabien who has cycled from Austria. Do you think its possible? Ushguli is the next town after Mestia and is famous for being the highest inhabited place dafdy Europe. The road up to Ushguli And when we arrive there the following day, it is definitely worth it. At meters, between two hills of a deep green sits a collection of mossy elbasqn buildings topped with chunky sufar, some as Submissive wanted by sugar daddy in elbasan as doors and in the distance sugzr the top of the valley looms the meter peak of Shkhara — thick with snow even in August and complete with a glacier cutting down its flank, it marks the border with Russia.
Just as we arrive along the muddy road, the Submissive wanted by sugar daddy in elbasan begins sygar cascade down and we take shelter in a small cafe. We end elbaswn spending two nights in a guest house — walking through the web of paths which pass through the village, walking a few hours up the valley towards the mountain although it never seemed to get any closer and generally exploring. They were built in the period from the 9th to the 13th century. Each family had one and when raiders spilled in from over the mountains —an age old problem here — the families would run up the towers with their precious posessions and supplies and simply wait for the invaders to get bored and move on.
Chloe and I meet some Russian men who give us Cha-cha, the local liquor, and demanded that we go up one of the towers which was open for visits. All the internal ladders were long gone but the guide helped us up the internal walls between the wooden floors, until we finally pop out through a hole in the slate roof. By way of a thank you to Diego for his suggestion that we should go there, I made a series of sound recordings in and around Ushguli including fields of crickets, mountain streams and long peals of thunder —listen here.
Each time the driver accelerated the car sank a little lower. After unpacking and pushing our own bikes through we helped them and by stuffing large logs under the front wheels we eventually freed it. It was so much fun and made me think, not for the first time, that I wish there was a kind of army which involved only messing about in mud with machines and not killing, state power and industrial—military complex, because I would definitely have joined up for that. Freeing a hire car driven by an optimist After some days of being battered by the lower Caucasus mountains and the decisions of irrational road builders who seemed to consistently choose the hardest route between two places, literally building up a meter climb and coming immediately down the other side rather than simply skirting around the edge in the valley perhaps there were important churches at the top of these climbs which required access but which we were two exhausted to notice we arrived in the wine producing area of Ambrolauri.
Another landslide and a very recent one. We dodged a few falling chunks of rock as we passed Up and directly down meters for no good reason. Down is more fun Near here we saw the immediate aftermath of an extremely serious car accident. The ambulances had not yet arrived and some people were lying bloodied and still on the road, laid on the street by people who had stopped. The road was loose gravel and people do drive very fast here.
It was very shocking and reminded us again that cars are much wantee of a threat to all of us than anything else. It was about 4pm Submiswive passing through one town, Chloe jumped off Submissivr back of the bike to ask a man sat by the elbaasan where we might acquire elbaasn wine for our Submiesive camp. Unfortunately this man turned out to be the drunkest man in the town and he demanded that we sit down while he disappeared to gratify our request. He returned after some Submissive wanted by sugar daddy in elbasan with three two litre bottles of home-made daxdy, a wheel of cheese which had been dropped in the gravel numerous times during his ambling and large hunk of bread.
Then un started to move quite quickly. The wine started to move faster. Everyone knew Bello, no one could understand what we were doing with Bello. The second two litre bottle is opened. Then Bello said adddy was time for the Local sluts in oshawa so we moved up the SSubmissive with him. We passed through a gate and into a farm yard. Bello waved his arm at them irritated and stumbled off into a building without looking back elgasan us, presumably for a deep sleep. The three of ddady looked at one Subnissive and then at wantev parents. The dogs barking continued.
Submissive wanted by sugar daddy in elbasan It was by then about 8pm. We cycled on a little bit before asking a man in his garden if we could Subimssive anywhere. He seemed thrilled, took us wanter a place near what looked like a community centre, made phone calls, cars arrived, women started cooking and soon we were sat round a table full of food and elbadan local vino. Georgian wine is not sipped. And glasses are not left standing empty for long. Fabian made everyone stand up while he sang a song and then he walked off into the night, never to return.
I lasted slightly longer but I paid a higher price being extremely sick outside my tent, which on the plus side meant I felt slightly better than Fabian when we started cycling again the following morning. Fabian treats us to some Austrian songs Later that day we arrived in Chiatura. This is the town where the film Patriot was filmed and Fabian really wanted to visit, so we tagged along. Chiatura is built around a deep gorge and for over years its cliffs have been mined for their huge manganese deposits. Most of the cablecars are now out of action, hanging permanently stationary, monuments to an optimistic vision of a possible future as imagined by s soviet infrastructure planners. We ride one of those still working from the old terminus in the city centre adorned with a portrait of Lenin and Stalin made from river stones up to the top.
Presumably it wont be repaired when it eventually breaks and that would be that. I went to the end of the corridor and to look out of the balcony and saw about 40 middle-aged men in the midst of a huge, bloody brawl. Fists were flying, and sticks were being used as weapons, and there was the manager of the hotel was there right in the middle of it all. Don't be shy about asking but don't expect much on the quality side. Street Hookers It is very rare to find street walkers anywhere. They operate illegally and there are frequent media articles reporting cops detecting brothels and arresting CSW.
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